How to install a sliding patio door.
How to install a sliding patio door, By Pro Door Repair The classic patio door fits a double-wide opening and is made up of two aluminum-frame or vinyl glass panels–one fixed and the other sliding. While the actual opening will and can vary in sizes than an ordinary door, the broad expanse of glass across the two panels creates a feeling of spaciousness and helps connect the indoors and outdoors in a visual way.
It’s not unusual, though, for older sliding patio doors to show their age. The rollers and tracks are subject to wear, making operation difficult. Handles may break and latches may become misaligned. Sliding door have a higher wear rate over any other style of door units.
When changing out your door unit you may wont to look at changing the sliding door to a hinged patio door. Hinged patio door’s have less maintenance than sliding door’s, The cost is about the same. The examples below are one of the ways to change out your door, Keep in mind there many ways to change out door units most every door is a little deferent.
Ordering Your Door First, remove the interior trim (Fig. 1) and measure the width and height of the rough wall opening. At the floor, check to see if the old door-frame rests on the sub-floor and abuts the edge of a finished floor, or instead sits on top of the finished floor. Make sure that the door frame will sit high enough so the door will clear the floor adequately if you are converting it to a hinged patio door when it swings open. Also, bear in mind that an in-swinging door hinged on the side of the frame (not on the center) will open beyond about 90 degrees only if the inside of the frame is flush with the interior wall. For walls greater than 4-1/2 in. this will require exterior jamb and sill extensions. Be sure to discuss your particular requirements with your supplier.If you’re at all uncertain. In our case, our rough opening was 72 in. wide x 82 in. high. Most all new hinged patio door units are 81.5” to 82.25 ” Tall With a 4&9/16′ wide jamb You can have the jamb with custom built to the with you need on a hinged door unit. The closest fit was a unit made for a 72 x 80-in. opening. When you order the door, also order the latch set, lock cylinder and any sliding screen or grille that you require.
Removing The Old Unit Full-glass patio doors are heavy and it makes sense to disassemble the old unit and remove it in pieces. While sliding patio units vary in design and assembly, here’s one removal process we do.
Begin by removing the sliding door and fixed panel. To lift the sliding door out of its track, first Remove the screws at the top and bottom rail and pull off the aluminum stile cover that prevents the panel from rising, NOT ALL door;s have this some have a small piece of angle iron holding it in place. (Fig. 2).
Then, lift the door and swing the bottom in (Fig. 3). Remove any screws securing the fixed panel to the track system and then remove the second frame in the same way.
With the glass out of the way, remove all screws that secure the aluminum tracks to the jambs and sill (Fig. 4). Then, simply knock the tracks out from the wooden frame.
Our underlying jamb, sill and exterior trim assembly was secured by nails driven through the trim work into the wall framing. Use a cat’s-paw nail puller to remove these finishing nails (Fig. 5)…
…and slice through the exterior caulking with a utility knife (Fig. 6).
Then carefully swing the frame out of the wall opening. To remove the old cap flashing, slide the blade of a reciprocating saw underneath to cut the nails. Then, pull the metal flashing out.
Preparation Unless your rough opening matches the door maker’s specifications, you’ll need to shim the wall frame. It’s best to add equal shims on both sides of the opening so the new door will be centered and trim work will go more easily. First, check that the bottom of the opening is level. If necessary, cut wooden shims to level this surface and bring it to the required height in relation to the finished floor. Then, shim out each side and the top of the opening to meet the new door’s requirements and check that these surfaces are plumb, level and square.
With the opening ready, lay the new door on its back on two 2 x 4s and install the plastic top and side flanges by tapping them into the grooves in the door frame -You may not need this type of application. (Fig. 7).
Then, use a small pry bar and screwdriver to remove the screw covers at the sides and top of the casing, NOT all doors have this (Fig. 8).
With the screw covers off, the screw holes for securing the assembly to the house wall will be accessible. Finally, apply a few beads of Heavy duty sealant-glue to the base of the rough opening, (Thar are many types of sealant you can get), ( (Fig. 9).
Installation Have at least one helper on hand to help you lift the door into the opening. If the opening is more than a few inches above the level of the patio or deck, set up a temporary ramp with 2 x 4s and blocking on which to slide the patio door along. Slide the bottom of the door frame into the rough opening and then swing the top into place. Press the door in until the flanges meet the wall sheathing, Or in most application the inside jamb will need to be flush with the finish wall. It is easier to modify the exterior trim than the inside trim.. Check that the unit is plumb on all vertical surfaces, and level. Then make sure the shims are installed right in the sides and partially drive the screws to temporarily hold the door in place (Fig. 10).
Have some tapered shims on hand to shim the door at each screw location. Insert the butt end of a shim into the gap between the rough opening and door frame just above a screw. Then, trim the narrow end of a second shim so when it’s slid against the first it fits tightly between the door frame and the rough opening (Fig. 11). Be careful not to force the shims and bend the frame. On the other hand, once the screws are in place they will tend to pull the frame a little farther toward the wall. After shimming at each screw location and making final checks for level and plumb, drive the screws into the wall framing.
Then add any required screws through the latch hardware or hinges (Fig. 12). Remove any spacer clips installed around the door for shipping.
Install the latch set according to the instructions supplied with the assembly .
Finishing With the new patio door in place, fill the gaps around the perimeter with fiberglass insulation Or foam from a can.
With the jambs finished, cut and install new interior trim. Drive finishing nails into the extension jambs and wall framing, set the nails and fill the holes. Or you can use trim screws This is what we use Nails over time will pull out screws wont.
Paint all bare wood with a quality latex primer, follow with the finish coats of your choice and caulk around the exterior trim . Finally, re-install the snap-on screw covers around the sides and top If the door unit comes with a snap on cover, If not fill and paint.
Hope this will help you.
Pro Door Repair